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descriptionNew here. Couple pics, couple questions. EmptyNew here. Couple pics, couple questions.

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Hey guys,

Just recently picked up a 2008 B King with ABS, 3500 miles on it. Gorgeous bike, love everything about it so far. However, it's been through two previous owners, and somewhere down the line, they had removed the steering stabilizer from it. I'd like to get one back on there. Does anyone know if one from a Hayabusa will bolt right up, or does the Kings differ in terms of size or mounting it?

Also, seem to be experiencing a bit of power loss in higher rpms. My first guess on that, just based on how it feels is a plugged up fuel system or perhaps spark plugs. Just wondering if it may be a bit of a common issue sometimes and if there's a definite known fix for it. Thanks guys!

New here. Couple pics, couple questions. AodSD34

New here. Couple pics, couple questions. OqJdzhW

New here. Couple pics, couple questions. XM1yp0U

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welcome to .org. sorry I cant answer your questions ,but sure some one will be along with your answers soon thumbs up 2

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The bike looks great. I see it is not only my country that has huge license plates.

As far as the stabilizer is concerned, I don;t think busa's damper will fit our bike. I'd suggest you get an aftermarket one - LSL or Bitubo since it will definitely be an upgrade vs the stock one.

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Joshidiah wrote:
The bike looks great. I see it is not only my country that has huge license plates.

As far as the stabilizer is concerned, I don;t think busa's damper will fit our bike. I'd suggest you get an aftermarket one - LSL or Bitubo since it will definitely be an upgrade vs the stock one.


Thanks for the suggestion, I'll look into em. I'm in The US and our license plates are actually pretty tiny, what you're seeing is a temporary plate, those are about 2 or 3 times the size for whatever reason. Usually meant for cars.

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Welcome from NC! Bike looks sweet. I did see that there are 2 OEM dampeners on flea bay. About $80. As far as engine, it could be injectors or some fuel issue. Has it been sitting around prior to your purchase? If so, have you either drained the tank or put in an injector cleaner? Maybe just some fresh premium fuel to the engine is all it needs.

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Av8er wrote:
Welcome from NC! Bike looks sweet. I did see that there are 2 OEM dampeners on flea bay. About $80.  As far as engine, it could be injectors or some fuel issue. Has it been sitting around prior to your purchase? If so, have you either drained the tank or put in an injector cleaner? Maybe just some fresh premium fuel to the engine is all it needs.


The bike is 7 or so years old and has (or had) just about 3500 miles on it. I think its probably safe to say it was stored for prolonged periods of time (poor bike) Since I got it yesterday, I've done around 400 miles and have filled up a few times with fresh, new gas. I also tried some injector cleaner today. Doesn't seem to have made much of a difference, if any.

I've read a bit (not much) into the exhaust servo or exhaust valve. If that was seized shut or not opening all the way, could it be the cause? The problem will not occur until the bike hits 7k rpm. Everything below that is absolute bliss.

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I've read a bit (not much) into the exhaust servo or exhaust valve. If that was seized shut or not opening all the way, could it be the cause? The problem will not occur until the bike hits 7k rpm. Everything below that is absolute bliss.[/quote]

Yes, that is a very real possibility. If it has seized in something other than the full open position, that would cause it to run poor for sure. I'm assuming your FI lite is not illuminated, which it would if the exva is not functioning. You can check this when turning the key to on. The valve will open full then close part way. Without knowing the previous owners, it's possible this has been disabled through flashing or removed totally. Many owners do one or both. Have you checked to see if this valve/cables are still intact. You can see the cables and where they connect on the right side of the bike. It's in the mid pipe that's just above the cat about 6-8 inches.

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Av8er wrote:
Have you checked to see if this valve/cables are still intact. You can see the cables and where they connect on the right side of the bike. It's in the mid pipe that's just above the cat about 6-8 inches.


Yep, it looks like it's still intact. Cables running to it at the very least. There's a cover over it and I didn't get a chance to work on it tonight. I'll see if i can get the cover off and get a better look at it tomorrow. Should I be able to actuate it manually with my hands?

Also, yes, no FI light or anything, and I believe I hear something moving, or at least trying to in that area, when I turn the ignition on.

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Welcome!

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zdc590 wrote:
Av8er wrote:
Have you checked to see if this valve/cables are still intact. You can see the cables and where they connect on the right side of the bike. It's in the mid pipe that's just above the cat about 6-8 inches.


Yep, it looks like it's still intact. Cables running to it at the very least. There's a cover over it and I didn't get a chance to work on it tonight. I'll see if i can get the cover off and get a better look at it tomorrow. Should I be able to actuate it manually with my hands?

Also, yes, no FI light or anything, and I believe I hear something moving, or at least trying to in that area, when I turn the ignition on.


It sounds as if your problem is not related to the exva system. With the cover off, you can see the valve work to verify. With the actuator cables still attached it would be more difficult to move the valve by hand a lot, but the spring is not that tight that you should be able to have some movement. And if it was seized, you would likely not move it at all.

I guess after ensuring that this is working as it should, I would check to make sure that from sitting around at length, that there is no obstructions in the air induction. i.e. rodents nest set up camp underneath the tank or in the pods?

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Av8er wrote:
zdc590 wrote:
Av8er wrote:
Have you checked to see if this valve/cables are still intact. You can see the cables and where they connect on the right side of the bike. It's in the mid pipe that's just above the cat about 6-8 inches.


Yep, it looks like it's still intact. Cables running to it at the very least. There's a cover over it and I didn't get a chance to work on it tonight. I'll see if i can get the cover off and get a better look at it tomorrow. Should I be able to actuate it manually with my hands?

Also, yes, no FI light or anything, and I believe I hear something moving, or at least trying to in that area, when I turn the ignition on.


It sounds as if your problem is not related to the exva system. With the cover off, you can see the valve work to verify. With the actuator cables still attached it would be more difficult to move the valve by hand a lot, but the spring is not that tight that you should be able to have some movement. And if it was seized, you would likely not move it at all.

I guess after ensuring that this is working as it should, I would check to make sure that from sitting around at length, that there is no obstructions in the air induction. i.e. rodents nest set up camp underneath the tank or in the pods?


Not a bad idea. Whenever I get a new bike I like to go over it and do spark plugs, air filter and oil. Couldn't hurt to rip the tank off and give everything a thorough going over. Looks like I got something to do this weekend. I assume there's a fuel filter somewhere on this thing. It wouldn't happen to be easy to get to, would it?

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Not a bad idea. Whenever I get a new bike I like to go over it and do spark plugs, air filter and oil. Couldn't hurt to rip the tank off and give everything a thorough going over. Looks like I got something to do this weekend. I assume there's a fuel filter somewhere on this thing. It wouldn't happen to be easy to get to, would it?[/quote]

No, pulling the tank is doable but can be a challenge. I would recommend a search on some "how to"s as the pods are much easier to remove after you know where the attach points are. If your bike still has the tool kit, there should also be a "tank prop" tucked in there on the side that you can see by just popping off the side covers. Useful. If you pull the tank, you will find you have to disconnect the fuel filter connection line and expose your air box. You might find that it has been modified as there are a number of members who have done it. Again, "how to"s. Hopefully you will find your problem in the air box. Have fun.

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Just a heads up, if anyone ever searches and finds this thread.

After riding the bike a bit more, I'm fairly confident the issue is the fuel pump. If I do a very slow roll on the throttle (I'm talking very slow) I can get the bike to pass through the rpm range relatively fine. If I demand more of the engine at higher rpms, it really bogs or cuts out. I'm thinking its being starved for fuel and the pump isn't able to supply a sufficient flow.

I got the Bosch fuel pump part number: 69420 (way waaaaay cheaper than stock, supposedly better, too)

I'll be installing it this weekend (as well as cleaning out the entire fuel/intake system and will do a follow up.

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I'm going to try and be as descriptive and use as many key words as possible here. Again, just in case someone finds this using a search in the future....I know how frustrating it is to find threads with your exact problem, and then no resolution.

The bike is fixed, and holy hell does it fly.

I took off the tank (much easier than I expected) and replaced the fuel pump with the bosch one. It requires some modification, but nothing your average joe can't do. I cleaned out the mesh fuel filter while I was in there, and reassembled the bike. Including travel time (to and from my brothers, where I can work on things in a nice garage) it ended up taking 6 or so hours. Not really that bad, considering I wanted to go very slow and be meticulous. Fired the bike up, everything was good, no new leaks, squeaks or rattles. On the test ride, the bike still had the issue. It would fall flat on its face under hard throttle at around 7 thousand rpm (depending on throttle input, maybe 6000, maybe 8000) I was pretty upset.

The only other thing I could think of, was it must be the injectors. The 1340cc engine uses 2 sets of injectors. The primaries (larger ones on the bottom of the fuel rail) and then secondaries (smaller ones, top of the fuel rail) The secondaries come into play at higher RPMs and heavier throttle conditions. Since my bike is about 7 or 8 years old now, and only had 3500 miles, it's a pretty safe assumption that there was a lot of sitting around with gunked up gas clogging the injectors. Pair that with the fact that the bike needs not only to be ridden, but ridden hard to get gas flowing through the secondary injectors, and you've got a recipe for disaster.

So, the next day I rode the bike back to my brothers and tore the whole thing down again. This time, I also ripped off the airbox. This will expose the fuel rail and injectors. From this point, all you need to do is unscrew the four screws holding the fuel rail on, pull it back a little and you can unhook and take out all 4 secondary injectors.

Once you have the injectors out, you're going to need a few things: Carb cleaner in an aerosol can, assortment of heat shrink wrap and an assortment of tubing. Also, a 9 volt battery and 2 lengths of wire. Hook the wires up to each terminal on the battery (loop them around and hold them down with electrical tape (be sure the wires on each terminal aren't touching!))

Now, find some tubing that will fit onto the injector (the side that was plugged into the fuel rail) and zip tie it on, very snug. Using the assortment of tubing, slowly bring the size of the tube down until it is a close fit around the nozzle on the aerosol carb cleaner. Use heat shrink wrap at each transition in the tubes, so the are completely sealed.

Now that everything is set up, use the battery/wires to try and test fire the injector. Simply hold the corresponding wire to the corresponding prongs on the injector. You should hear it click. If it doesn't click, don't worry. Mine were clogged up so badly, I (my brother) had to drizzle carb cleaner through them and continually try to fire them. Eventually they freed up and began firing. Seriously, they were so clogged they couldn't even try to work when triggered.

This next part is tricky. You'll need to hook up your mutant tubing creation to your injector on one end, and the carb cleaner on the other. Position the injector so its in a cup or some sort of container. Now, spray the carb cleaner into the tubing, while using the battery and wires to trigger the injector to fire. Do this until it sprays carb cleaner through in a nice, uniform pattern. Try to fire the injector in short bursts, don't just hold it down. Once you've done this to all four, you're good to reassemble everything.

While you're in there, though, you may want to remove your secondary throttle plates. I did away with mine and I like the feel of the bike a bit more now.

I apologize if this isn't very descriptive. But search youtube for "Injector cleaning" and you'll be able to find videos that will fill in any gaps in my write up.

Again, if you're bike starts fine, the pump primes and everything, don't bother replacing it. If it has a high rpm hesitation, feels like it hits a wall anything like that, I urge you do just clean the injectors. You'll have to take them out if they're really bad, injector cleaner won't work worth a damn. Hopefully this ends up helping at least one person.

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